Does Emsworth need another café-cum-restaurant? Doesn’t it already boast one of the highest numbers of eateries per population this side of London,
The town of 10,000, which attracts vast numbers to its September food festival – and thereby causes a bit of a ruckus among some residents and businesses – is also home to 20 restaurants, cafes and pubs, not to mention three takeaways.Notable restaurants include the Michelin-starred 36 On the Quay and Fat Olives. The Coal Exchange and several others come up with some good pub grub. Will Driftwood, a recent newcomer, bang slap in the middle of town, add to or detract from standards?Joined at the hip with Stansted House’s Pavilion Tea Rooms – they share mostly the same menu – Driftwood, which replaced the rather murky Café, is easy on the eye and the pocket. Painted a duck egg blue inside and out with other splashes of colour, the double fronted café sparkles with faux marble tables and white and cream rattan chairs. The walled courtyard is a further draw in clement weather. It’s Scandinavian chic meets English tea room.The bar positively groans under the weight of cakes, scones, muffins and other carbohydrates, as well as a juicer laden with oranges and a proper coffee machine. Tea in all its guises – and served in the prettiest spotty teapots – is a given. Taking a leaf out of the Fortnum & Mason book, Driftwood offers Afternoon Champagne Tea – a tiered china cake stand with a quarter bottle of bubbly. Now, how’s that for charming?But it’s not all tea and cake here. Those duck egg blue doors open for breakfast at nine for scrambled eggs and back bacon or smoked salmon on local Westbourne bakery toast (£4.25-£6.95), toasted cinnamon bagel or fried eggs, mushrooms and bacon (£5.25).Drift in later for homemade mushroom soup with crusty Westbourne Bakery bloomer (£4.25), smoked salmon and dill quiche, Welsh rarebit with homemade coleslaw or mackerel pate with toast (£5.95). All specials are made on the premises as are some of those cakes, scones and shortbread. Paninis, salads, jacket potatoes, sandwiches and combos also form the menu. A pot of tea for two is a highly reasonable £2.50, a cappuccino £1.50. Take note, Costa. Here you get to sit in comfort reading provided papers, drinking from a cup. At Costa a cardboard latte is £1.95.The homemade Thai style butternut squash soup with a crusty, hefty, excellent bloomer was thick, gloriously warming soup in colour and character benefiting even more from that extra Thai herby kick. A winner.If you buy quiches rather than make them yourself you’ll know what you’re missing when tasting Driftwood’s ham, leek and mushroom one. The creamy, perfectly made filling graced a pastry that is rarely met: buttery, thin and cooked through. It was served with a selection of acceptable if not overwhelmingly wonderful salads – a spoonful of carrot and sesame, one of rather dull couscous, another of dressed potatoes. It was excellent value at £6.25.Does Emsworth need another café cum restaurant? Why, surprisingly yes, it does. The sheer numbers trying to cram in for a table point to an appreciative audience who seek quality, style, pleasing, friendly service and a relaxed atmosphere. Driftwood,
Emsworth. 01243 377373.
Open: 9am-5pm Mon-Sat. Licenced.
Disabled access: Tricky for wheelchairs due to a step up in the cafe and narrow space by bar but otherwise fine.How to get there: Exit the A27 at Emsworth, follow town signs, take the third exit at the anchor roundabout onto the High Street. Parking on-street or on nearby car park.